A middle cut of salmon cooks evenly on the barbecue if wrapped in foil. Slash the sides so the smoke flavors the fish.

5-10 kumquats or 1-2 oranges
4 tablespoons butter, preferably unsalted
2 tablespoons chopped dill
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and pepper
2- to 3-pound piece of middle-cut salmon

Slice the kumquats or, if using oranges, cut off the tops and bottoms and then cut in half from top to bottom and slice. Mix the butter, dill and garlic together and season. Layer 2 large sheets of foil together.

Stuff the salmon with half the butter mixture and half the kumquat or orange slices. Spread half the remaining butter over one-half of the foil and arrange half the remaining kumquat or orange slices on it. Place the salmon on top of the butter and fruit slices. Spread the remaining butter over the top of the fish and place the remaining kumquat or orange slices on it.

Bring the unbuttered side of the foil up over the fish and make a loose package, tightly sealed on one side. Make three 2-to 3-inch angled slashes in the foil on both sides. Place on a rack over a good quantity of glowing coals. Keep the coals very hot and cook for 15-20 minutes a side. To test if cooked, partly open the package. Use a fork to check that the salmon flesh easily comes away from the bone.

SERVES 4-6