The filling for these omelets is flavored with the Thai fish sauce, Nam Pla. If this is not available, substitute lemon juice.

2 tablespoons oil
3 scallions, chopped (reserve the green parts for garnish)
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger root
5 ounces salmon fillet, skinned and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3 ounces bean sprouts
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon nam pla fish sauce
2 tablespoons sweet sherry combined with
1 teaspoon cornstarch
salt and freshly ground pepper
3 eggs
2 tablespoons butter

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and gently fry the white part of the scallions, the garlic and the ginger. When the onions arc transparent, add the salmon cubes and stir constantly for 1 minute or until they are just cooked. Use a slotted spoon to remove the contents of the pan and set aside. Add another spoonful of oil to the pan and cook the bean sprouts, stirring, for 1 minute or until they have wilted. Sprinkle in the soy sauce and nam pla, then stir in the sherry and cornstarch mixture and a good grinding of pepper. Bring to a boil and let it thicken. Return the salmon to the pan and mix it in. Keep warm.

To make 6 omelets, beat the eggs, adding 2 tablespoons cold water and salt and pepper. Melt a knob of butter with a dribble of oil in a 6-inch skillet. When it is hot, pour in a little of the egg mixture and swirl it around to cover the bottom of the pan. Cook until set, then slide onto a warm plate. Cover and keep warm. Make another 5 omelets in the same way.

Divide the filling between the omelets. Fold in the sides so that they overlap and resemble square pillows. Transfer to a plate with the folds underneath. Garnish with a little of the green from the scallions.

SERVES 6